Royal Caribbean Cruise - Day Zero - Orlando
November 13, 2004
You packed drunk in the middle of the night, you got no sleep, you spent twelve hours in the car today, you gladly accepted a $500 charity check from your mom, and you tied down six large pieces of luggage in the biting-cold wind just inside the Arkansas border.
But somehow none of that matters at midnight, when you find yourself in a seedy strip club where the seven-dollar draft beers come in 10-ounce flutes, the hostesses who lead you to your table are three times hotter than the actual strippers and the "private dance" involves being led to a highly visible corner of the club for an unceremonious handjob.
You're in New Orleans with three friends and two friends of friends, and you're thoroughly intoxicated. The sardine-packed streets ooze with mayhem and debauchery, strands of beads rain down from the upstairs balconies, and a place called the Absinthe House just served you guys seven glasses of synthetic chartreuse wormwood.
Over the course of the next few early-morning hours, you get shitface-drunk and wander the streets and completely lose track of all your friends in the Harrah's Casino - the most enormous gambling facility you've ever seen - and eventually have hotel security called to your room when your drunkest friend wants the two friends of friends to get the fuck out.
In ten months, New Orleans will be rubbed off the map by a Category 5 hurricane, but tonight it's your home. Your dirty, dirty home.
"Control your baggage at all times."
-Southwest Airlines mandate, which doubles as emotional advice
November 26, 2005
6:55 a.m.
I'm in the East Terminal of Lambert St. Louis Airport. More accurately, I'm on a barstool of the Chili's in the East Terminal of Lambert St. Louis Airport. Even more accurately, I'm on my second double Cuervo and OJ of the day on a barstool of the Chili's in the East Terminal of Lambert St. Louis Airport, and the sun just came up an hour ago.
I've already lapped my friends Jason and Emma, who occupy the next two stools to my right. Both are drinking El Nino Margaritas. "Look what the wind blew in!" scream the omnipresent, in-very-poor-taste table tents advertising the ENM drinks.
Somewhere in front of Gate 22, Justin's girlfriend Melinda is guarding four pieces of carryon luggage and trying to jockey all of us for position in the B boarding group on our first-come/first-seat Southwest Airlines flight. Melinda is also waiting for one of us to deliver her a Burger King breakfast sandwich. We're going to get right on that, we swear.
Meantime, Jason is off his stool, showing off the wedding ring he's planning to slip on Melinda's finger sometime this week. Two fiftysomething women, each one nursing a salted-rim Bloody Mary, are oohing and aahing over the ring ("That's gorgeous!" "That IS gorgeous!").
They're discussing carats and diamond cuts and other shit that is meaningless to me as one of the women's husbands sees his wife trying on Melinda's future ring and mock-yells, "Hey! I leave you alone for five minutes and some other dude's puttin' a ring on your finger?!" All eight early-morning bar patrons cackle in unison, as the wife flings a cardboard Red Stripe coaster at her husband.
The bartender doesn't flinch. She's used to this dawntime mayhem. She's the one who suggested we all make our drinks doubles for two dollars more. And her drink well is stocked with fourteen backup bottles of Bloody Mary mix, immediately within reach. A whole other case is waiting in the back, if needed. She says her rush hits hard around 9 a.m., and that the Bloody Mary is the favored drink of her airline pilot regulars. Who couldn't use a few double cocktails before steering a red-eye Parisian flight across the Atlantic?
"I know how you should do it, Jason!" Emma shouts from the corner of the bar. "When we're all on the beach, you put the ring in an oyster when she's not looking and act like, 'Oh, look what I found, Melinda!'"
We all kind of shake our heads. The mock-yelling husband tosses the same Red Stripe coaster in Emma's direction.
"Or here's one!" Emma seems to not even notice the whirring projectile flying past her head. "You bury it in the sand. 'Look, darling, what's that in the sand?'"
"I've got it covered, Emma, thanks. I've had it planned out for months," says Jason.
The pair of fiftysomething feminine romantics wants a play-by-play, and Jason launches into his staid proposal routine. Seconds in, Emma's eyes go wide.
"Here she comes! Here she comes!" she hisses. "Hide the ring."
And some piss-poor bumbling physical comedy ensues while the ring gets stashed away, we pretend to talk about something else, and Melinda saunters up wondering where the fuck her sausage and egg biscuit is.
--
9:20 a.m.
Melinda tells me not to. Emma tells me not to. But I can't resist pushing the little button over my head with the drawing of a stick figure holding a tray with a seemingly huge beverage on it. We're about a third of the way to Orlando, and my Gin and Tonic - served in an eight ounce plastic cup that resembles a Slurpee lid - is long gone.
And Jason wants another screwdriver. Who can blame him? I just knocked the first one down his leg and into his shoes. We're sitting in the aisle right over the wing - Jason gets extra leg room because the seat in front of him is missing, but that means he has to mooch my tray table. And that means I just knocked my Mila Kunis-on-the-cover issue of Stuff magazine into his drink.
So I push the button, which dings very audibly. Within seconds our flight attendant - a prim homosexual gentleman in his late thirties who resembles Jim J. Bullock - saunters up and asks what we want in a voice-tone bordering on impolite. I tell him another round of drinks and a shitload of towels. He's unamused, but his service is prompt. Two hundred travelers, and we appear to be the only AM alcoholics.
The early morning drinking was Emma's idea. She hasn't flown in five years, and the last flight she was on was nonstop turbulent across two time zones. She spent hours staring out the window, praying to God and crying and, at one point, she asked the businessman two seats down to please turn off his laptop because it was interfering with cockpit controls. ("He looked at me like I was retarded, and he just kept on typing.")
So she wanted a little liquid confidence to bring on the flight with her. But Emma - aside from a thirty-second near-panic attack during takeoff when she decided she wanted off the plane and we should all ride bicycles to Florida instead - has pulled through like a champ. And she's not drinking anymore. Jason and I are continuing in her stead, sucking down cocktails and cracking each other up with impersonations of demented airline announcements, all delivered in that suave, calm pilot voice with plenty of "uhh...." pauses between words.
--
10:10 a.m.
In seat 11D, directly to my left - receiving none of her allotted armrest space - is a pock-faced blonde waif I've mistakenly assumed was Eastern European and completely not fluent in English. Nope, she's American, and she's passing notes across the aisle to a furrowed-browed middle-aged gentleman I've mistakenly assumed was her father.
Since taking an over-the-shoulder peek at the passed notes, I'm desperately hoping the man is not related at all to this jailbait temptress. I figured the extent of the idly passed notes was, "Hey daddy, this flight sure is boring! Can we go to Sea World tomorrow?" / "Of course, darling. First thing in the morning. But save some energy for the Magic Kingdom!"
No way - Daddy's more interested in describing the waif's poetic facial features and his undying love for her. Daddy also feels like he's been "played" and that the waif apparently has no regard for his deep feelings. Daddy accompanied this accusation, believe it or not, with an intently drawn frowny-face.
"You knew I was together with Joshua when we met, and I told you I wasn't going to leave him," she scrawls on the back of a computer-printout boarding confirmation. I read the words while pretending to look in a catalogue stuck into the seat-back pouch in front of me. "And you and Nathan both need to realize you have to share my free time."
"This ninth grader's a fucking pimp," I whisper to Jason. The waif can't hear me anyway - she's got the earbuds of her mini MP3 player cranked to eleven. I think she's listening to The Veronicas right now. "She's like a junior She's Gotta Have It."
I'm about one drink away from tapping the waif on her upper right arm and asking, "Mile-high club?" with a knowing eyebrow wink. Across the aisle, Daddy is filling their back-and-forth notepage with angry prose. The waif undoes her seatbelt and heads about eight rows back. Leans in and starts talking to another middle-aged man on the aisle. I wonder if that's Nathan.
--
1:40 p.m.
We're checked into our suite at a Holiday Inn Select - me, Jason, Melinda and Jenna - a fifth traveling companion who took a different flight out of St. Louis. We expected to be in Orlando, in our designated rental car, an hour and a half or so ago. But the rental car people had no record of our booking, and after much frustrated maneuvering at the counter in Orlando International Airport, our equipped full-size SUV has turned into a 15-seater church van with tinted windows. It's approximately the size of half a city block, and finding volunteers to drive the thing was difficult. Melinda ended up taking Leg One of the half-hour trip from the airport to the family tourism capital of the world.
We're spending a night here, and tomorrow we board Mariner of the Seas for a weeklong Royal Caribbean cruise. Right now, though, all I can think about is taking a nap. I got maybe 40 minutes of sleep last night - put off packing until midnight or so and spent several early-morning hours playing "Tetris" and "Super Mario Bros." on a vintage Nintendo box Melinda unearthed and brought over.
Jenna and Melinda are keyed up - the former has been popping open all the cabinet doors in the kitchenette of our hotel suite to see what goodies are inside. "Four porcelain bowls!" she announces after opening Door #3. "Who wants to eat cereal with me?" No one wants cereal, but Melinda agrees to head downstairs with Jenna to the T.G.I. Friday's for some beers and lunch. Jason and I bid them farewell and each take a queen-sized bed. Jason sets his cell phone alarm for one hour from now.
--
5:35 p.m.
I get out of bed. I'm not entirely sure if the cell phone alarm ever went off, but it didn't stand a fucking chance either way. I begin the grooming process after begging the front desk clerk to have someone bring up a single-serve shaving cream. Turns out this is their fourth trip up to our room already - they've already delivered extra towels and pillows and investigated a mystery clogging of the toilet.
I'm ready for the evening before the rest of our group, which has swelled to six - Emma's oldest sister Marie arrived in Orlando on a later flight from Detroit. Jenna crawls into the queen-sized bed I just vacated, mumbling something about menstruation being physically draining and does anyone have any aspirin? She's gently snoring several minutes later.
Everyone else rotates their way in and out of the shower, while I wander the halls of the Holiday Inn Select with a video camera, recording vulgar attempts at humor. Highlights include:
* I pan the camera across a bank of unused house phones as I note, "These phones may seem obsolete and unnecessary in the era of cellular takeover - until you use the second phone to the right to dial 1-900-BUTT-SEX for a log-jammin' good time."
* I get a closeup of a hallway sign reading "Safe Refuge Place" as I note, "Wow, Jesus has been promising this for millennia, and finally Holiday Inn Select steps up to the plate."
* A picturesque view of palm trees and children frolicking in the pool as I note, "Every year before we leave for our cruise, we traditionally spend the night before partying in a major tourist town, and ten months later God wipes it off the face of the earth. So I'm recording this for future generations - the palm trees, the outlandish number of swimming pools per square mile and capita - this is what Orlando looked like, because next September it's all over."
* A P.O.V. shot of a hand pushing open a tiny poolside unisex restroom door as I note, "This is the hottest new attraction here in Orlando for boys and girls under 54 inches in height. It's Uncle Andrew's Wild Ride. Don't worry - I have a team of high-powered attornies."
And with the homosexual, blasphemous, casualty-heavy and pedophilic humor out of the way, I return the camera to the room and tell everyone I'll be down at the Friday's bar, drinking dollar-sixty draft beers.
--
11:25 p.m.
We're sitting in the church van outside a Walgreen's, me and Emma and Marie. Jason and Melinda are inside purchasing replacements for the toiletries they forgot - apparently they're not cheap fucks like me who call the front desk for toiletry duplicates.
"I don't feel like we're in Florida," Emma says. "Where's the Epcot ball?"
"The palm trees are enough for me," Marie replies.
"Nope, I need the Epcot ball," Emma says. "Need the Epcot ball."
We just got done playing mini-golf at a course directly next door to Wet-N-Wild, my favorite water park ever. Looking up at all the quiet waterslides lit in soft colors was all the confirmation I needed that I was in fact in the ultimate childhood playground. And act like kids we did - getting all competitive and stupid over mini-golf and air hockey and a free-throw basketball contest in the game room. We even bought "alligator food" (i.e. a chopped-up hot dog in a pot baggie for $3.95) and tried to force-feed Ballpark Franks to apathetic, sleepy gators.
Now we're headed to Citywalk, the restaurant and bar complex at the entrance to Universal Studios. As soon as Jason and Melinda get back with their toothbrushes and we can swing back to the hotel to let Jenna back into the room. She's locked out, and the front desk people won't give her a new keycard because her name's not listed on the room.
The church van is crookedly parked, its ass jutting way out into traffic. We're seven inches away from the car on the right, praying Jason and Melinda get back before the rightful owner shows up. The R.O. actually beats our friends back to the car, though, and he turns out to be a frightened-looking Eastern European. Rather than ask us to move the church van, he sucks in his breath, shoulder-shuffles sideways and somehow squeezes into his vehicle. It's an impressive display of agility and cowardice.
--
12:50 a.m.
Our Holiday Inn is directly across the street from Citywalk, and I've been looking forward to going back to The Groove and the Bob Marley reggae club for months. Suddenly, after taking a poop break and drinking a pair of $1.60 T.G.I. Friday's draft beers and realizing our Citywalk time is scarce and the prices damned expensive, we all make the mutual decision to anchor down a six-top table at Friday's and just get drunk there.
Banter with strangers is dicey - the bar attendees are divided among business travelers and parents of children who are currently asleep somewhere upstairs. The closest I get to amusing stranger conversation is in the men's room with a proud Floridian. He gets somewhat offended when he overhears Jason and me making fun of the state's handicap bathroom stalls. Which are actually legally mandated to be separate rooms with their own sinks and mirrors and emergency phones and baby-changing tables. I say I'd like to see a guy in a wheelchair change a diaper, and the Floridian asks where we come from that we think we're so cool. We tell him Nairobi, in the heart of Africa.
The bar closes, the girls all go to sleep, and Jason and I sneak a bottle of Cream Sherry down to the hotel courtyard. The pool area is locked up, but I use my height and armspan to my advantage and reach over the tan metal fence to grab us a pair of deck chairs. We each light up a smoke - Jason some cigar in the eight-dollar range and me a back-to-back pair of Black N' Mild Milds. And, for a tranquil hour or so, we drink and smoke and talk about serious shit and stupid shit. We enjoy the breeze of warm fall weather and stare at the Citywalk spotlights in the sky and inaugurate our vacation in style.